Fiberglass Hot Tub Polish
on April 25, 2014 in Care & Maintenance Hot tub cleaning and maintenance is easy, and even better, most of the duties only need to happen a few times a year. One of the simplest, yet important, cleaning routines is draining and cleaning the shell of your hot tub. Over time, the shell can accumulate scum lines, scale lines, and mineral deposits, depending on your water chemistry. By draining your hot tub and cleaning off the shell, you can help guarantee that your hot tub will last for many years. The steps to cleaning your hot tub after it has been drained are simple. First, you’ll need to drain your hot tub. Follow our instructions to doing so in a clean and safe manner, then prepare yourself to clean the surface of the shell. Let your hot tub shell dry out as much as possible. Once most of the water has dissipated, take a dry towel and wipe down the shell to absorb any remaining water. You’ll want the shell as dry as possible so you can use your cleaning products to their highest potential.
You’ll probably need to stand inside the hot tub, to do so, take off your shoes and use a clean pair of socks. You don’t want any unwanted dirt getting inside your tub. Next, use ThermoSpas All Purpose Cleaner. This is a great cleaning product that can be used on your shell’s surface when it is drained, and even on the surface of the shell above the water line when it is filled. Simply spray your shell with the cleaner and wipe clean. For more stubborn areas of deposits, allow ThermoSpas All Purpose Cleaner to remain on the area for 5 minutes then scrub and rinse with water. Best of all, because it is a natural enzyme, the cleaner will not affect your water’s chemistry, so using it when your hot tub is drained, or when it’s filled, won’t cause any need for alarm. It’s a good idea to put some special attention to your jet fixtures. This is where the high powered water is pushed out of the shell to massage your every muscle. It’s important to make sure no scum or mineral deposits get in the way of these powerful jets.
To clean, we recommend dampening your rag with ThermoSpas All Purpose Cleaner and working your hand around the jet. You could also use a small brush (a toothbrush does the trick) to clear out the crevices of the jet. Make sure to be gentle on the jet and surface with any kind of brush though as to not scratch or damage the area. Just like waxing a car, next you’ll want to apply a polish that will help protect your hot tub shell by providing a luxurious, durable coating that won’t affect the chemistry of your water. We recommend ThermoSpas own Thermo Gloss. An innovative silicone based polish that will bond to the acrylic surface of your hot tub. Use a small amount on a clean rag, and rub it onto an area of your hot tub shell. Let the Thermo Gloss sit for ten minutes, then wipe clean with a separate rag. The result is a beautiful and shining shell that will help prevent scum lines and keep your hot tub looking brand new. Cleaning your hot tub shell is as simple as that. No need for overdoing it, and with cleaning only needed every few months, you won’t feel like this is a harrowing chore at all.
Instead, it will feel good to give your hot tub a clean start with a shine that glimmers like the first day you bought it.Cavachon Pups For Sale South Wales
For more questions on cleaning your hot tub shell, visit the maintenance section of our blog. House For Sale Old Bullard Road Tyler Texas
If you’re interested in purchasing your own hot tub, contact ThermoSpas today, we’d be happy to help.Replacement Headlight Bulb Toyota Sienna
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One Step Fiberglass Aerosol Cleaner, Protector and Polish "Great for shinning up appliances" (review) Customers find it easy to use, long-lasting and cost effective World's No.1 selling Kitchen and Bath cleaner and polish for cultured marble and fiberglass. Cleans and protects cultured marble, fiberglass, laminates, and acrylic. Non-abrasive cleaning agents remove surface oxidation and light scratches while leaving behind a protective carnauba wax coating Cleans and protects and shines cultured marble, fiberglass, laminates, tile and acrylic Recommended by manufacturers of cultured marble and fiberglass Excellent for sinks, basins, countertops, tubs, spas, RV's and boats This question is from 12 oz. One Step Fiberglass Aerosol Cleaner, Protector and Polish2 can I use this on swanstoneOne Step Fiberglass Aerosol Cleaner, Protector and Polish2 Can I use his to polish cultured marble?One Step Fiberglass Aerosol Cleaner, Protector and Polish2 Can this be used on a granite composite sink
One Step Fiberglass Aerosol Cleaner, Protector and Polish1 Have a 30 yo fiberglass tub enclosure which is dull from hard water and harsh cleaners. Can this restore shine to it?Cast Iron, Acrylic, & Fiberglass Tub and Showers Care & Maintenance Cast iron and china plumbing fixtures were the only choices you had 50 years ago. Choices were limited as were shapes and designs. However, within the past 15 years, the plumbing fixture market has exploded with new products manufactured using new materials. The visit to the local plumbing supply house that once took only 15 minutes, now may last an hour or more as you try to decide what to select. Traditional cast iron bath tubs are still available. They are manufactured in virtually the same manner as they have been for close to a century. Molten iron is poured into a mold that is the exact shape of a tub. After the iron cools, the mold is removed. A thick layer of porcelain enamel is fused to the cast iron in a high temperature oven.
This enamel coating, as many of us know, is as hard as glass. The finish of a new cast iron finish is brilliant. The biggest difference in today's cast iron products as compared to those of 50 years ago, is the wide variety of shapes and sizes and the seemingly endless color selections. The only person who will be unhappy with your choice will be your plumber, as he or she will have to make an extra trip to the chiropractor! Cast iron tubs are very heavy. I know, as I have installed my fair share of these beasts. Approximately seven years ago, the American Standard Company introduced a product that offered the durability of cast iron but weighed only half as much as standard cast iron. It is called AMERICAST. It is a metal based product which has a porcelain finish on the topside and structural foam on the underside of each fixture. The manufacturer claims that its finish will outlast that of standard cast iron fixtures. It is supposedly more impact resistant as well. The foam backing is a nice feature if you like to soak in tubs full of warm water.
The foam insulates the tub and allows the water to stay warmer for a longer period of time. The major advancements in plumbing fixture variety and selection occurred with the use of fiberglass and acrylic plastic. These materials allow manufacturers to create an unlimited variety of shapes and sizes. These units also offered freedom from the use of ceramic tile on the walls of shower stalls and bathtubs. This was a major step forward in making tub and shower areas easier to maintain. The acrylic and fiberglass units do have their weak points, however. The finish on the products is not as hard as porcelain. Some of the units have thin bottoms which are notorious for flexing when occupied. This flimsy feeling can be eliminated by extra work in the field by the plumbing contractor, or by purchasing a unit which has a reinforced bottom. Extra wood shims or plaster must be placed under the flimsy units to make the base solid. As always, this just adds to the cost of installation.
There are several distinctions in the way these items are manufactured. Virtually every unit uses a backing of some sort to give the acrylic or gel coated top surface more strength. Often, the fiberglass coating is applied by a humanoid. Humanoids don't always produce consistent results on an hour by hour or day by day basis. As such, the backing is not always uniform. American Standard does make acrylic tub and shower units using a somewhat different process. They call these items IDEALCAST. They take thin acrylic sheets, heat them, bend them to the desired shape and then mechanically apply a structural composite material to the back of the acrylic. The result is increased structural stability. The Kohler Company has introduced a different plastic compound call VIKRELL. This lightweight plastic compound is similar to acrylic, however it is designed to withstand the alkalies found in soaps and shampoos. These alkalies sometimes cause the colors to fade in other less expensive plastic tub and shower units.
These types of tub and shower units are made by spraying a liquid gel coat on a mold. The thickness of the gel coating is critical. If the proper amount of initiator and temperature is maintained during the curing process, the gel coating can actually achieve a hardness greater than that of the acrylic units. Surface hardness should be of importance to you. A harder surface can be more easily maintained. It also tends to hold its glossy appearance for a greater length of time. Repairing Scratches & Nicks Each of the different products, cast iron, acrylic, and gel coat, react differently to repair attempts. Cast iron, for example, cannot be repaired. If you scratch or nick the porcelain finish, you are simply out of luck. It is really no different than scratching a piece of glass. Acrylic products can be repaired with some difficulty. The repairs, however, are not always invisible. This is due, in part, to the fact that the color is uniform throughout the product. The color is sometimes hard to match.
Gel coated products are the easiest to repair. The repairs, when performed by an experienced individual, are almost always invisible. Which One is Right? No matter which type tub or shower unit you decide upon, as long as you purchase a high quality unit, you should be satisfied. There is no overall winner in my opinion. There are many advantages to the one, two, or three piece plastic units: cost, weight (light!), no grout lines to clean, colors, and various different shapes. Cast iron tubs and other metal products offer solid, long lasting purchases. Their glass like surfaces, when maintained, have no equal. You make the choice which is right for you and your lifestyle. Care, Maintenance & Cleaning Tips The care of cast iron, acrylic, and gel-coated plumbing fixtures is not difficult. The thing that causes the most problems is that people do not clean soon enough. Often a person will wait until a heavy soap buildup or mineral deposit has occurred.
When this happens, cleaning with the recommended cleaners becomes a difficult, if not impossible, task. The solution is really very simple. Why not decide to clean the tub or shower area every other Saturday (or other "off" day) while you are showering? Just jump into your birthday suit and get to work! If you do this, you will find that it takes no more than 3 - 5 minutes to completely clean a tub or shower area. The time passes quickly because there is very little to clean! Try whistling as well, as it worked for the dwarfs. Cast Iron Cleaning Tips Cast iron fixtures are probably the easiest fixtures to care for, as they have the hardest finish of all plumbing fixtures. The porcelain glaze that is bonded to the iron achieves a hardness very near that of actual glass. We all know that glass, because of its hardness and smoothness is really quite easy to clean. Porcelain, when cleaned on a regular basis, will shine like new glass forever. However, many people simply wait too long to clean things as mentioned above.
Each manufacturer usually prints distinct cleaning instructions and recommended cleaners to use on their products. These instructions are always packaged with the items in new installations. If you have existing fixtures, you can call the 1-800 #s listed in the Acrylic And Fiberglass Shower Manufacturers column to obtain the instructions. Or, if you like, you can contact a local product distributor. For example, The Kohler Company publishes the following instructions for caring and cleaning of their cast iron products: NEVER trust what is published on the label of a cleaning product!!! Always check with the manufacturer to see if the cleaner is OK to use. Some cleaners say "....Safe for all surfaces....contains soft abrasives that are safe for such and such surfaces... Acrylic and Gel-Coat Products These products are extremely sensitive with respect to the type of cleaners that must be used. You absolutely must contact the manufacturer (if known) to find out what to use.
Absolutely never use an abrasive cleaner on these products. Use the mildest soap, like regular dish soap DAWN (not dishwashing machine soap, these have abrasives in them!), that you can find. Clean regularly as stated in the top paragraph of this page. Certain soaps and cleaners can actually fade the color of units. Some soaps contain alkalies that will actually cause cracks to appear in the finishes as well. You must use very mild soaps and clean often! Remember that these fixtures have a softer finish than cast iron products. This means that you MUST use softer cleaning instruments!! The best thing to use is simply a wash rag. Scouring pads of any type will, in all likelihood, leave tiny scratches! Remember, these units can be waxed. Waxing every three months will keep a bright shine. NEVER wax the floor or bottom of a unit!! The key to maintaining the finish on acrylic and gel coated units is to treat them just like a new car finish. You never use abrasives when you wash your car.